gratefulness is, happiness is

Day 17

 
gratefulness is..
– crossing the road in one piece
– realizing that the drops of water falling on me on the streets is not spit, only water from the air conditioners in homes
– an honest and friendly taxi driver
– change in my pocket
– the ability to sleep through the call to prayer at wee hours of the morning
– the ladies-only compartment on the metro
– egyptian hospitality and warmth
– the declining heat as cairo welcomes fall

 

happiness is..
– the air conditioner (that finally works) at home
– the 5 Egyptian pound fruit juice in the neighborhood
– having the taxi driver or the stranger on the street understand my pronunciation
– the company of the cool evening wind by the Nile
– frozen mangoes in the freezer
– the beautiful smiles of little children
– ‘lunch’ at my egyptian friend’s house

 

the fact that I am here, alive with the city

marketplace in ‘Islamic Cairo’
Copyright: Mary Hayoung Kim

end of week two

The end of week two feels different from the end of week one.

I visited Zamalek and Maa’di (and saw a whole new world and layer to Cairo), as well as the huge marketplace in ‘Islamic Cairo’, I ate by the Nile, I got to know my neighborhood a little better (although I think I’m frustrating all my friendly neighboorhood people by my lack of colloquial language- just hoping my smile will make up for everything), I visited an Egyptian friend’s home and had amazing food, I started to go a little cuckoo in the head (the effects of a lack of a working AC in the room for a fortnight), and did a bit of deductive reasoning on my own (“I am not a cat. I am not Chinese. I am not a Chinese cat.”).

As the newness began to wear off, I would be lying if I said I didn’t get frustrated by the little things that I, as a foreigner, come across on the streets. BUT,

  • the taxi driver who sings a Turkish song to me when I tell him I am new to Egypt, but that I lived in Turkey,
  • the taxi driver who is worried for me, the newcomer of this big city, and refuses to accept the taxi fare (until I have to literally force him to take it)
  • the taxi drivers (haha) who give me their numbers and tell me to call them if I ever need help
  • 2 young ladies who when I ask for direction, let me get a ride with them in their taxi but refuse to accept any money from me for the fare (“No sweetheart, you don’t pay.”)
  • the older ladies on the metro who catch my attention to point to the empty seat beside them,
  • the cashiers in the supermarkets who smile and ask me how I am and tell me, “welcome to Egypt”,
  • the man who sees me walking in circles and kindly walks me to the street I am looking for,
  • the police officer who sees me stuck in between speeding cars, and stops traffic to allow me to cross safely, :)
  • the young Egyptian guys who ask me where I’m from, ask me north or south, and then excitedly tell me ‘2-0’ – when the meaning is lost on me, they explain with friendly laughter, Korea beat Egypt in soccer in our last game, :)
  • the young guy who loudly yells “Shut up,” when some younger boys are yelling stupid things at me in English just to grab my attention
  • the older guy in the bakery who lets me try some of the amazing dessert for free,
  • Asmaa’s aunt who cooks ‘mumtaz‘ food and tells me she will make me into a ‘baT‘ (duck),
  • Magi’s mom who escorts me to my home on the bus at night and won’t let me pay for my own bus fare because she says it’s tradition in Egypt for the older person to always pay on the bus,

the smallest acts of kindness are what is making me get enchanted by Masri ‘charm’-

Welcome to Egypt, Mary :)

 

나도 외로움을 타는 인간이라는 것을 깨닫게 한 2주차. ‘짜증’나는 것들이 보이기 시작하는 2주차. 하지만 이 곳에 있다는 사실 하나만으로 그 감격에 울어버린 2주차. 혼자 생활하는게 힘들어도 힘들 수 없는 이유. 아랍어가 쉽지 않아도 어렵지 않은 이유. 결국은 이 곳 사람들이다. 이 곳에 있을 수 있는 것 만으로 감사하고 감사하다.

 

with dearest Magi, who always make me laugh :)

14 days, the limit to my tolerance level

Day 14

I have been keeping in good company many things in my room from bed bugs to mosquitoes to ants, but the most trying of all has been my broken AC. I think my tolerance and patience for living without air conditioning for the last 14 days deserves a mention in the guiness book of world records, but now my tolerance level is plummeting fast and furiously. I also think I’m starting to go a little bit cuckoo in the head. @$-&;%#^*<€£+

!عايزة تكييف دلوقتى، كل ليس تمام..:( ياللا، ياللا

방에 있는 에어콘은 고장났고 선풍기도 없고 집주인은 카타르 갔고 집주인 여동생은 나몰라해서 너무 더운데.. 덥다고 공부가 안된다는 것은 핑계뿐이겠지..?ㅠㅠ ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ 그래두 아덥다- 집에 따뜻한 물이 안나오는게 다행인건 같다ㅎ 내 인내심은 정확히 2주간 천정부지였다. 하지만 2주가 넘는 이 시점에서 처음에는 뭣도 모르고 견뎠던 고난이 절망과 정신줄을 놓는 현상으로 변할려고 한다.. 얄라 얄라 에어콘…….!!

fii mushkila, ana 3ayizza tekeef dilwa2ti, kulu mish tamam, yalla yalla…! give me air conditioning…!

nothing beats Turkish hospitality

Hospitality served with Turkish çay
Sept. 1, 2012, Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

Nothing beats Turkish hospitality – unless of course, you’re anywhere else in the Middle East where your friends and the family of your friends will go to any means and ends to make sure you are (in these three stages) well-fed, full, and bloated.

My dear friend Pelçin and her family greeted me at the airport when I arrived in Istanbul (on the first of September). They would hear nothing of my apologies of making them wait for nearly 2 hours – even her little brother had been waiting at the other end of the exit, holding up her mobile phone with my Korean name written in wriggly letters, just to welcome me and he too just smiled and chattered away my ‘kusura bakma’. To finally be back after 5 years, was a moving movement- and to be greeted in full-out Turkish style was, if it’s even possible, even more touching.

Instead of taking me directly to the place where I was planning on staying for a week, they took me to their home where I had great home-made food and insisted that I make myself comfortable and spend the night (for as many nights as I wanted). Pelçin’s baba and anne both told me that I was like Pelçin to them, and welcomed me like any daughter.

Hospitality served with Turkish kahve and lokum at Pelcin’s brother and sister-in-law’s house
Sept. 1, 2012, Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

I loved being part of the late-night visiting and sohbet (conversations) among family members, relatives, friends and neighbors (such an integral part of their daily life). Like any Middle Eastern country, it’s a family and community-centered society that is knitted with jokes, laughter, çay, kahve, the latest soccer match, the latest happenings, news, and gossip, the important and not-so important things that create a hub of warmth and huzur (serenity). If all my evenings and nights could end like this..

In 5 years, Istanbul has developed and become more noticeably modern. But Turkish hospitality remains the same. :)

with Pelçin’s amazing anne :)
Sept. 2, 2012

 

Dilder, Pelçin’s younger brother. We found an area set aside at a mall near Pelçin’s home for writing and posting notes. So we decided to leave our mark as well.

 

Dilder, writing an note

 

Dilder’s note: “I love myself, my friends, my brothers, and my sister very much and of course my sister’s Korean friend as well.” I love this kid :)

 

Sept 1, 2012
Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

Dilder and I :)
Because of Pelçin’s love for Korea, Dilder now wears socks with Korean flags (which is actually unthinkable in Turkey- to be stepping on your own nation’s flag!) and Angry Bird snap watches, and can sing along to Psy’s ‘Oppa’n Gangnam Style’ :D

 

wıth my dear Pelçin – ironically we wish ourselves being able to switch places, as we both have fallen in love with each other’s country and wish to live there. We had a long conversation trying to figure out the irony – but all we could come up with was ‘özgürlük’. There are surprising similarities in our cultures, but I think we’ve found more freedom in each other’s countries. Nonetheless, I think you should know that you have a great family (bilmelisin, senin ailen muhteşem). :)

the true price of ‘innocence’

“Innocence of Muslims”

There’s a double ironic jeopardy to that title whether it be in referrence to the film trailer or to the reaction against it in the Middle East. It’s the title of a trailer made in America, the contents of which contains blasphemy against the prophet Mohammed (uh, hello, bad idea?), and it’s been the catalysis of anti-American protests spreading across the Middle East which began with Egypt on September 11th (you can read more about it here). 4 Americans died in the American diplomatic mission attack in Libya on Tuesday including ambassador J. Christopher Stevens. Many more locals (note: locals) have been injured amongst anti-American protests in Egypt, Tunisia, Sudan and so on. The irony is not lost that the trailer was first posted online in June, but that its translation into Egyptian Arabic and its rapid spread occurred in the days before September 11th. President Mursi has condemned the attacks in a national address and requested the protection of foreigners in accord with Islam. A strain in U.S.-Egypt relations is not desirable for an Egypt that is struggling economically and being tested diplomatically.

I’ve been getting a lot of messages from people confirming that I’m doing okay and safe. One of my dear friends, Tim, who is studying in Israel was just checking in on me, and I’ll go ahead and share my reply:

 

Thanks Tim! Maybe it’s because I’m not American or maybe because I’m not in the U.S. embassy area that I wouldn’t even feel the anti-American sentiment/anger unless I kept up with the news. But if you talk with an Egyptian, they definitely get worked up. Rationally speaking, they just feel that it’s not appropriate to speak bad about or create an insulting video about any religious prophet- but would you blame them? It just seems common sense, right? Would I get worked up if some people blasphemied against Jesus and made a video about it? 어이없겠지, and most likely offended but then again I wouldn’t go out trying to harm the people of that country or its embassy. That also seems like common sense, right? But I also don’t want to categorize it as “Muslim backwardness” (as one Western media outlet put it) – I understand that the people in Libya, and the people in Egypt and elsewhere who are out and protesting are trying to send a message. That by no means is this acceptable for them. Religion and life are intertwined here in the Middle East, as you already know so well! Religion is life, and life is religion. But yeah, the way they’re going about doing it is definitely wrong. I think what Huntington actually meant by ‘clash of civilizations’ was the clash of religious fundamentalism and innocent people getting hurt inbetween. What’s up with the person/group who made the video. The CIA should put them on their blacklist because they’re just as dangerous as any extreme terrorist group. They’re like the catalyst for extreme religious fundamentalists and terrorist groups. I bet they loved this (just the fact that they spread the translated video in the days before September 11 says something I think). I also think it wouldn’t probably have been such a big deal (at least not across the whole Middle East) if say, the video had been made in Lithuania. It’s just one more thing to be angry at against America (the symbol of Western Christianity), you know? 

I’m curious to get a feel for the protests [I want to know the accuracy of media portrayal..!] but I’m listening to advice and staying away from that area. Apparently over 200 protesters have been hurt? I’ve been out and about other areas of Cairo the last couple of days and there’s nothing to suggest any awaiting harm for me as a foreigner. But yes, I will keep safe! And I appreciate your prayers! How’s Israel? Is there any twist to the story or different approach from Israeli news? Pure condemnation or just apathy? We need to find a time to skype. Miss you so much and can’t wait ’til spring!!

_________________________________________________________________

Postscript: I had a brief interesting conversation with Andy about the situation in Cairo right now which made me reflect on the importance of balanced, unbiased journalism and balanced, unbiased insight into any situation. Andy’s an American, but his take into the situation was frustration over the stories that journalists are selling in the West that blow up ‘physical’ action without fully checking into or trying to understand the truth.

I think both sides (the West and the Middle East) need to pop their balloon.

Like Andy was telling me, Egyptians need to realize that unlike some Middle Eastern countries, there is no government censorship in the U.S. so it shouldn’t automatically be assumed that everything that’s been produced in America (especially low-budget poorly-made videos) has government approval or that it’s the general consensus of a population of 300 million. They should see it for what it is – senseless religious fundamentalism at its worst. Americans also should not take the protests as an ‘Islamic war against Christianity’ or against the U.S. Yes, those who are protesting are angry, but their methods don’t represent the whole nation and neither does it represent all Muslims.

Both sides need to take a step back and calm down.

Whether the ‘clash of civilization’s on a religious front is hypothetical or being seen right now, if people do not choose to be objective, that’s all they’ll see. Then who are the victims of this ‘deadly myth’ as Frieson puts it? The loss of objectivity, the ‘deadly myth’ – innocence pays the price.

end of week one

in a taxi in Cairo :)

A lot has happened in a week: I toured Old Cairo, I got ripped off by a taxi driver, I made friends with another taxi driver, I got caught in a fishing rod by the Nile, I got lost a countless amount of times, there was a power cut in the house, I discovered to my disappointment that the air conditioner in my room is not working, I got darker (my watch mark shows me just how much!!), I learned how to pronounce the name of my street, I tried local food, I fell in love with the mango here which tastes heavenly, I went to a Coptic Orthodox New Years’ celebration, I started fusha classes, I became mosquito/bed bug food, I swallowed a lot of dust, I rode the bus, I learned how to ride the metro, I learned how to cross the road by myself, and I became friends with two amazing Egyptians.

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아무도 내게 묻는 사람은 없지만, 기억하고 싶어서 웅기오빠가 얄라아라비 인터뷰에서 원주가 카이로 일주일차때 물었던 질문들을 일주일차인 내 자신에게 물어보았다ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ 일년 뒤엔 난 어떤 모습일까?

Day 7:
“이제 카이로 온지 일주일 됐잖아요, 와보니까 어떻게 카이로 이집트 지낼만해요?”

네!ㅎㅎ 카이로의 첫 인상은 솔직히 충격이였어요. 왜 가보지도 않은 인도가 머리 속에 그려지는지.. 그리고 더 솔직히 말하면 5일째 되는 날 밖에서 땡볕 아래 또 역시 길 잃어서 헤메고 있을때 ‘내가 정말 여기서 살고 싶나’라는 질문이 머리 속에 생기더라고요. 제가 중동(터키)에서 살았어도 여기 환경이 너무나 다르고 낯서니까.. 근데 그러다가 또 길거리나 택시에서 친절한 현지인을 만나면 금방 그런 생각이 사라지고 그런 현지인들 때문에 긍정의 힘이 생겨요.ㅎㅎ사람들이 친절하니까, 환경이 중요하기 보단 사람이 중요하잖아요- it’s the people that make the place라는 말처럼. 여기 사람들이 좋은거 같아요, 사람들과 친해지면 카이로가 더 좋아질거 같아요. 사실 아직 일상생활에 있어서 모르는것도 너무 많고 말이 안 통하니까 스스로한테 답답한 면들은 있는데(바왑이 계속 볼 때 마다 말을 거는데 하나도 못 알아듣겠어요, 나도 뭐라고 대답하고 싶은데ㅠㅠ), 차근차근 익혀가면 되는 부분들이니까 동네 지리랑 기본 구어체 좀 익히면서 빨리 카이로 탐방도 하기 시작하고 현지인들과도 대화를 나누고 싶어요.. 그게 바램이에요, 그러면 카이로 생활이 더 재밌어질거 같아요.

“카이로와 이집트에 대한 인상은 어때요, 첫인상 아니면 지난 일주일 간의 인상?”

공항에서 나오자마자 첫인상은.. 뜨겁다… 그리고 나쁜 의도로 얘기하는 것은 아니지만 솔직한 첫 인상은 ’70년대의 터키’? 뭔가 터키에 있는 비슷한 자동차, 비슷한 건물들, 비슷한 거리들이지만 더 낡은 느낌? 타임머신을 타고 옛날 터키에 간다면 이러한 모습이 아닐까라고 생각해봤어요. 물론 거기다 먼지와 햇빛 강도 추가. 더워요.. 일주일 후 인상은 그저 모든게 신기하고 궁금하고, 이렇게도 사는구나 싶어요.ㅎㅎ

“그럼 일주일 동안 있어보니까, 또 새로운 이집트 연수를 오는 분들이 있잖아요, 그분들에게 어떤 조언들을 해드리고 싶어요?”

음, 일단 어학연수가 목적이면 학원들을 어느 정도 알아보고 오는게 여기서 시간을 단축할 수 있을거 같고 너무 헤메지 않을거 같아요. ‘아랍코리아넷’이나 주위에 이집트에서 학원을 다녀온 사람들의 의견이나 조언도 들어보고 어느 정도 공부를 어떻게 하고 싶은지 감을 잡고 오는게 좋고, 오자마자 학원도 빨리 시작하면 적응하는데 있어서도 큰 도움이 될거 같아요. 또 저는 딱 일주일이 됐는데 제일 적응을 못하는게 피부인거 같아요ㅠㅠ 피부가 계속 촉촉할 수 있도록 미스트나 수분크림 같은거 꼭 챙겨오는거 정도? 그리고 매일 밤 알 수 없는 벌래? 모기?의 먹이가 되어주고 있어요. 모기향/약 가져오는것도 괜찮은거 같아요 (현지에도 있겠지만 처음에는 뭐가 어디에 있는지 모르니까). 마음을 비우고 오라, 기대를 낮춰라, 뭐 그러기 보단 그냥 모든 가능성에 마음을 열고 오기~ 타문화라는게 다르니까 재밌는거잖아요? 그냥 오셔서 피부로 느끼면 돼요(literally). :)

“앞으로 어떻게 이집트 생활하고 싶다 이런게 있나요?”

사실 너무 많은 욕심을 안고 왔어요. 문어체와 물론 구어체도(아랍어) 잘 하고 싶고, 잘하고 싶은 이유는 현지인들이랑 거리감 없이 얘기를 나누고 싶어서이고.. 정치와 일상생활을 포함한 이 곳만의 문화도 더 알고 싶고 체험하고 싶고, 또 그냥 즐길 수 있었으면 좋겠어요. 너무 조급하게 생각하지 않고, 매 순간 순간을 즐기면서 많은 것을 느끼고 체험하고 싶어요. 생활하다 보면 색다른 경험을 할 수 있는 기회들도 생기겠죠? 아, 그리고 제 안에 머뭇거리는 부분들도 깨고 싶어요. 물론 안전은 필수지만 ‘내가 할 수 있을까’라는 머뭇거림은 과감하게 깨고 싶어요. 나만의 이집트 생활을 만들어가고 싶어요~

crossing a street in Cairo

 

Having lived in Turkey most of my life where cars have priority over human beings on the road, I thought I’d fare well crossing the streets of Cairo. But standing before this indescribable real-time computer-game-like panorama of speeding cars, my jaws literally dropped (before the dust forced me to close them). I felt so small and vulnerable as cars seemed to scream, ‘Cross if you dare.’

If it were a computer game, I’d probably be given at least 3 tries before I died, but the fact that I’m pretty sure I only have one in real life caused hesitancy on my part. I FROZE. The first few days consisted of becoming my neighbor’s shadow, but I’m doing alright these days. I don’t look too scared (I hope), and I don’t run (cool as a cucumber) and I don’t panic when the cars honk their horns at me to get out of their way (I shall learn in good time how to scream back at them or do the appropriate hand motions) – I’ve found me rhythm alright. =) “Unni’n Masri style?”

It definitely is a sport that requires quick instincts and ‘noonchi‘. I think the next sequel of the ‘Hunger Games’ should include ‘crossing a Cairo street’ as one of the obstacles.

 

Sidenote: But why doesn’t Cairo have zebra crossings for pedestrians? Has it really become an endearing pastime?

Eid El Nayrouz

The entrance to the hanging church (Coptic Orthodox) in Old Cairo
Copyright: Mary Hayoung Kim

Of the fascinating things about Egypt is the long tradition of coexistence between Muslims and Christians in a predominantly Muslim country.  These Christian residents are also known as the ‘Coptic’ church, the word which literally means ‘Egyptian’. The Coptic Orthdox church was around since A.D. 451,  many years before Islam entered the country in A.D. 639. With a 10% constituent of the nation’s population, no small figure, their roots are planted deep in the country. Visit the famous hanging church in Old Cairo and other old Coptic Orthodox churches in the area, and you get a glimpse of how important religious tradition and symbolism mean for them. They have meticulously incorporated their interpretation of the Scriptures into the most minute design in their beautiful churches. Each pillar, each wood carving, each pattern carries meaning and significance that may be overlooked by the ignorant public eye, yet are constant reminders of God’s word and promises for the Coptic Orthodox congregation who gather to worship in the old and new churches alike. Although the old Orthodox churches and newer ones have their differences, it is subtle rather than stark – the interior and exterior designs, from the paintings and portraits on the walls and ceilings, to the segregation of the room based on gender distinctions appear the same, except for perhaps a slightly newer feel in more modern churches. For an outsider like myself, even the mystic scent and the aura of the old and new Coptic Orthodox churches felt similar.

Inside the hanging church. An ostrich egg hangs from the ceiling as an indicator of God’s watchful eyes over His people.
Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

Today the Coptic Orthodox Church celebrated its new year’s eve. Their calendar is different from the conventional
one, with different names and an extra month, and the month of the new year (September) especially commemorates martyrs. It was clear that the preparations for the evening’s program must have taken a long time and a lot of hard work. A variety of skits and songs spoke of the story of martyrs in Egypt, Coptic traditions and  Coptic words in the Arabic language (i.e. فلافل، ترابيزة، ياض، قربان). It speaks of the price of faith and the deep rich history of the church.

A New Year’s decoration outside a Coptic Orthdox church. The Coptic new year is ‘1729.’
Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

a skit using puppets in the Coptic Orthodox church on the eve of the Coptic Orthodox new year
Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

 

A picture of a saint/martyr in the hanging church in old Cairo. The glass display contains the bones of the martyr.
Copright: Mary Hayoung Kim

Remembering martyrs is one of the most important traditions in the Coptic Orthodox church. Pictures of martyrs surround Coptic Orthodox churches and in the old churches, the bones of martyrs which are put in boxes and displayed in glass cases can be found encircling the interior of the church – in newer churches they are put in a separate room but taken out on occasions like the New Years celebration to be carried around the church. The symbolism behind this can be found in the Bible verse, “Therefore, since we are surrounded by such a great cloud of witnesses, let us throw off  everything that hinders and the sin that so easily  entangles, and let us run with perseverance the race marked out for us” (Hebrews 12:1).

Their portraits are an symbolic image of the ‘great cloud of witnesses’, an encouragement to the congregation to keep going in their walk of faith and that they are not alone in their fight of perseverance.

The act of remembering is a message of gratefulness but it is also a message to unite even further in faith. It is similar to the Shi’a Muslims’ traditions of their remembrance of martyrdom and spilled blood – this includes the mourning of Muharram (the martyrdom of Imam Hussein Ali), day of A’ashoora, and so on. For Shi’as who constitute a minority in most Sunnni majority Middle Eastern countries, it’s a reminder of the price paid to keep the faith. That the price of faith does not always come cheap.

Along the same lines, perhaps that is why this day is also important for Coptic Orthodox Christians. The fact is, they don’t always have it easy.

Incumbent president Mursi, since having taken office on June 30, 2012, has a past affiliated with the Muslim Brotherhood, a name itself that suggests religous partisanry that excludes anything other than ‘Muslim’ in the ‘brotherhood.’ Mursi promised equal representation of society as he began his term and case in point, he appointed Pakinam El-Sharqawi, a female and a Coptic Christian, to his presidential team as the presidential assistant for political affairs. Regardless, observers are still wary.

For instance, on September 2, 2012, the nation saw a female anchor wearing a hijab on state television for the
first time after the ban on hijabs for female anchors reporting televised news was lifted by Mursi. Egypt’s
upper house of parliament also reappointed editors for the state-run media, a majority of whom are spoken of as
‘Islamists.’ Such recent changes that are perceived as strengthening Islamic traditions or codes in society cannot but worry the minority Coptic Christians in the country.

This may begin to sound very similar to the turn of events in Turkey and debates surrounding president Erdogan’s AKP party and its perceived tendencies to lean towards an Islamic color in society that has been keeping secularists on their toes. This may also turn out to be the rhetoric of Syria, depending on who will retain power in the coming days and months. The common question in all 3 countries then, may be ‘can the country have a genuinely united society?’ The importance of asking this question suggests that such unity has a correlation to the
upholding of human rights and social prosperity and peace.

Will Egypt be able to answer “aywa”?

My dear friend Magy, who has been looking out for me the past 5 days, reminded me why this day carries
significance for her and fellow Coptic Orthodox Christians. “Do you know why today is important? We are celebrating Christianity in Egypt.”

The land where the apostle Mark first brought the gospel after Jesus gave his apostles the great commission
of preaching the gospel “in Jerusalem, and in all Judea and Samaria, and to the ends of the earth” (Acts 1:8) before ascending into heaven. The place where Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus fled when an angel of the Lord appeared to them to warn them in advance of king Herod’s persecution of newborn Jewish babies in Bethlehem (Matthew 2:13-18). The territory where God’s chosen people in the Old Testament were held captive and then freed from the pharoah’s hand but where they spent 40 years in the desert before entering the promised land.

And it is also a land where the ‘adhan‘(pronounced ‘azan’) from the mosque spills out onto streets, alleys, and underground metro stations 5 times throughout the day, inviting people to prayer. A land where beautiful minarets dot the city skyline and Islamic traditions perveate society.

Nonetheless, keeping the signifiance of today in mind, I hope that Egypt can celebrate and be proud of its rich religious  history. I hope that it can speak of a one-of-a-kind beautiful harmony between Christianity and Islam in its land, especially under its first president after the 2011 Egyptian revolution that toppled the 30-year presidency of Mubarak – regardless of, or even despite, his previous party affiliation.

 

Mary Hayoung Kim

 

Egypt’s Muslims attend Coptic Christmas mass, serving as “human shields” – Ahram Online

  • Muslims stood as human shields outside Coptic churches after Islamic fundamentalists attacked a Coptic Orthodox church in Alexandria on December 31st, 2010.

February 2, 2011 – Coptic Christians make a protective circle around Muslims while they prayed during the height of the Egyptian Revolution.

 

February 6th, 2011 – Muslims and Christians chant “one hand” meaning “we are one” in Tahrir Square during the anti Mubarak demonstrations, Koran and cross side by side.

Source: The New York Daily News

a new city

Day 5

It’s not easy being in a new city… especially without the language. As I was wandering in search of the Citybank near my house, becoming a fried ‘Sini‘ on the way from the scorching sun, I wrestled with the fleeting thought that this may not really be a place where I want to live. I think the newness of the city and the language, the unfamiliarity and longing for comfort and convenience was getting to me, as the likelihood of getting lost when I would step out the house was hitting a 98% probability.

But then I flagged a taxi (getting the hang of it by now- “3ayyiza eru7a Mohandiseen. Mumkin?”) and had an exciting half an hour conversation with Mohamed, the taxi driver (who also got lost on the way, which was a reminder that the big city confuses even the best of taxi drivers), using a mixture of ammeya(colloquial Egyptian Arabic), facial expressions and hand movements. We had a great laugh. His friendliness and warmth (and perseverance to keep talking to me while I gave dumbfounded stares and most likely the most random incorrect responses) was a warm ‘ahlan wa sahlan‘ to the unfamiliar city. It reminded me that a big part of what makes the place is always the people- and people like Mohamed remind me why I want to stick to it even though the first days are not easy. Shukran ya Mohamed. I’ll call you when I can speak a little better, and hopefully then I’ll be able to give you directions in your taxi!

on the roads of Cairo

 

Also on my way home, I stopped by the small supermarket across the road from the apartment and was greeted enthusiastically by Hassan, the bawab(doorkeeper), who most kindly helped me out even though I could barely make out what he was saying.  Yesterday he greeted me enthusiastically while I was in the elevator going up (the most peculiar elevator ever)- when his head poked through the round circle which lets you see inside the elevator it gave me a big scare which eventually turned into laughter but I do appreciate his friendliness a lot.

 
This is why I waited anxiously for one year to be able to finally come and get to know Cairo –  to be able to learn to talk to these great people who make up the exciting city. Can’t wait to get to know you more. :)

Hello, Cairo

men who blatantly stare-
men who blow me kisses-
microbuses that are falling apart-
cars that belong in museums-
colorful hijabs framing pretty faces-
dust. mere dust. and more dust-
buildings the color of dust-
the Nile River, the remnant of past civilizations-
friendly people who don’t know the way but kindly point to all different directions-
roads impossible to cross without life insurance-
roads without rules-

the strong embrace of the sun-

 

hello, Cairo♥

an alley in Cairo
Copyright: Mary Hayoung Kim